Traveling on assignment through America's heartland not long ago, we were in search of a suitable restaurant where we could catch up with a few colleagues and friends. We were perusing one of those online dining guides that features assessments by actual customers.

One scathing review caught my attention in particular. "Don't patronize this overpriced eatery," it read, "even if somebody else will pick up the tab."

Needless to say . . .

Yet some of those in a position to know complain


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